The real reason why I never liked Gore-Tex, and it's got something to do with Pfas

I'll be honest with you when I'm not out tramping through muddy fields or getting caught in yet another unexpected downpour, I spend rather more time than is probably healthy worrying about how carelessly we treat our natural world. It's the same casual thoughtlessness that sees us clicking 'buy now' without a moment's consideration for what happens next, where things come from, or where they'll end up. This nagging concern is precisely what led me down the rabbit hole of restoring and maintaining vintage wax jackets, and I'm rather glad it did.

The Gore-Tex revelation that changed me

If you're the sort who enjoys a bit of outdoor adventure, and I suspect you are if you're reading this, you'll know how absolutely crucial it is to be properly kitted out before venturing into the great British outdoors. Decent waterproofs aren't just nice to have; they're essential. But here's the uncomfortable truth I discovered: when you purchased that shiny new waterproof jacket with all its technical wizardry, you may well have inadvertently shot yourself in the foot. More accurately, you've probably shot the environment in the foot, and your own health along with it.

The culprit? There's a rather good chance your jacket relies on Gore-Tex technology. Now, I'm not one for hyperbole, but Gore-Tex's relationship with PFAS chemicals is rather like what the non-stick coating on frying pans was in the early 1950s. A brilliant innovation on the surface, pun intended indeed hihi, potential disaster lurking beneath. These materials, along with most of the polyester-based fabrics in modern outdoor clothing, are absolutely riddled with PFAS, and they represent one of the most insidious threats to everything living on this planet.

The Pfas forever chemicals in Gore-tex that haunt us

PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, if you want the full mouthful, is an umbrella term for a whole family of chemical compounds that share one terrifying characteristic: they simply don't break down. Ever. Put simply, once these chemicals enter our ecosystems, they're there for good. The direct consequence of this permanence is rather stark: we're essentially conducting a massive, uncontrolled biological experiment on ourselves and every other living creature. That's what I meant about shooting ourselves in the foot by Pfas that's in Gore-tex.

Picture this scenario: you pop into your local outdoor shop and treat yourself to that gorgeous new waterproof jacket you've been eyeing. You can be virtually certain that the very first time you wear it in a proper downpour, a substantial quantity of PFAS will be released directly into the environment, washing off the fabric and seeping into the soil and water systems around you.

The science behind this is as fascinating as it is alarming. Gore-Tex jackets depend entirely on PFAS to deliver that exceptional water-repellency and stain resistance we've all come to expect. These so-called 'forever chemicals' are extraordinarily persistent, they laugh in the face of natural degradation processes and accumulate over time with disturbing efficiency. Research has demonstrated that waterproof jackets actively shed PFAS into soil and water, contaminating even the most remote and pristine natural areas you might think would be safe from such pollution.

In controlled tests, brand new Gore-Tex jackets released alarming levels of PFAS when exposed to simulated rainfall, including perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), one of the particularly nasty members of this chemical family. Now, manufacturers like Gore will tell you their ePTFE membranes are chemically inert, and whilst that may be technically true, it rather misses the point. The outer treatments and DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coatings absolutely contain PFAS compounds that can, and do leach out and pollute our environment.

The shocking scale of the problem

Recent studies have uncovered PFAS in the vast majority of waterproof jackets tested, including products from major retailers and popular online platforms across Europe. These chemicals don't just hang about for a few years before breaking down, they persist for generations, potentially centuries, in our ecosystems. Chemicals such as PFOA and PFOS within this extensive family have established links to cancer, immune system disruption, fertility problems, hormone imbalances, developmental delays in children, liver and kidney damage, and compromised immune function. The list is genuinely horrifying, apocalyptic if you will.

The growing alarm over these findings has prompted action: bans on PFAS in outdoor clothing are set to take effect across parts of Europe in the coming years, reflecting our increasing understanding of just how harmful these substances truly are. It's rather like watching the tobacco industry revelations unfold all over again, isn't it?

After the rain: where do these chemicals go?

The environmental and public health threat posed by PFAS in waterproof outdoor clothing extends far beyond the initial wearing. After being washed off jackets during your countryside rambles or during routine laundering at home, these chemicals seep inexorably into soil and water systems, eventually finding their way into drinking water sources. It's a sobering thought: your weekend walking jacket could be contaminating the very water you drink during the week.

Photo by Artem Horovenko on Unsplash

PFAS accumulate in wildlife and humans alike, persisting for decades, potentially longer than human lifespans, due to their stubborn resistance to natural degradation. Their remarkable mobility ensures they spread widely once released, impacting even the most pristine and remote ecosystems you could imagine. That Highland loch you thought was untouched? Think again. Animals in the Amazon non-affected? Think again. Your tapwater unspoiled? Think again. Goodness...

The industry's ever belated response

Attempts to phase out PFAS from the outdoor gear industry have intensified in recent years especially in Europe, driven by mounting evidence of their environmental footprint. Some forward-thinking brands now offer PFAS-free membranes, though these alternatives often require more frequent reapplication of treatments, creating inevitable performance trade-offs. The broader clothing industry continues to produce significant emissions and shed microplastics, further compounding our environmental woes. PFAS pollution from waterproof clothing forms merely one piece of a much larger puzzle created by modern manufacturing processes.

Wax jackets: a sensible return to a sensible solution

This is where wax jackets enter the picture, and why I've become rather evangelical about them. Wax jackets present a substantially lower environmental footprint compared to PFAS-treated Gore-Tex garments, and they do so whilst looking infinitely more stylish in my humble opinion. But the latter is of less importance to me.

These magnificent garments achieve waterproofing through natural materials like beeswax or paraffin wax. Now, I'll be transparent, paraffin is petroleum-based, which isn't ideal. However, crucially, these waxes don't exhibit anything like the persistence and toxicity of PFAS compounds. They can break down naturally over time, and they don't accumulate in living tissue the way forever chemicals do.

Yes, wax jackets require periodic rewaxing for maintenance, usually once or twice a year depending on how often you roll around in the mud, but this is hardly an arduous task. More importantly, you completely avoid the risk of contaminating the environment with forever chemicals every time you step out in the rain. As awareness of PFAS risks continues to grow, wax jackets are increasingly favoured by those seeking ethical, sustainable outdoor wear.

The beauty of patina and how caring for things makes us love them more

What's particularly lovely about wax jackets is how they improve with age, developing a beautiful patina that tells the story of your adventures, whether urban or rural. Those creases at the elbows, the slight fading where your rucksack sits, the way the wax develops character in high-wear areas, it's all part of the jacket's journey with you. A Gore-Tex jacket, by contrast, simply deteriorates until it fails and heads to landfill.

There's something deeply satisfying about the ritual of rewaxing a jacket, too. It connects you to the garment in a way that's rather difficult to explain to those who've never experienced it. There's a principle at work here that I've come to firmly believe: the more care we invest in something, the more we cherish it. It's simply how we're wired as humans. When you tend to something regularly, whether it's a garden, a relationship, or a wax jacket, you develop an attachment that transcends mere 'ownership'.

So I can tell you with reasonable confidence that when you invest in a proper wax jacket and commit to maintaining it, there's a rather good chance you'll keep that jacket for the rest of your life. My own Barbour is pushing thirty years old, and I wouldn't part with it for anything. And that, my friends, is about as sustainable as it gets: buy less, buy better, and care for what you own with genuine attention and respect.

The Barbour Bedale Trench Coat

Making the change, come on!

The shift away from PFAS-laden technical wear towards more traditional, sustainable alternatives like wax jackets represents far more than just a consumer choice, it's a small but meaningful stand against the throwaway culture that's brought us to this environmental precipice. Every wax jacket worn is one fewer source of forever chemicals entering our ecosystems, one fewer garment destined for landfill after a few seasons of use.

I won't pretend that wax jackets are perfect for every situation. They're heavier than modern technical shells, they require maintenance, and they won't stuff down into a tiny pouch in your rucksack. But for everyday outdoor pursuits in the north-western climate, dog walking, country rambles, general pottering about in inclement weather, they're absolutely superb. And unlike Gore-Tex, they won't be poisoning the countryside (or you) for generations to come.

I'd like to make a call to thoughtful consumption

As bans on PFAS in outdoor clothing take effect and awareness of chemical pollution continues to grow, the shift towards greener alternatives like wax jackets represents an important step forward for both consumers and manufacturers. But it requires us to fundamentally reconsider our relationship with outdoor gear, to move away from the relentless pursuit of lighter, more technical, more waterproof equipment, and towards garments that respect the very environments we're venturing into.

So the next time you're tempted by that sleek new Gore-Tex jacket in the shop window, perhaps pause for a moment and consider the alternative hanging just beside it. That wax jacket might be a bit heavier, a bit more traditional, and yes, it'll need rewaxing now and then. But it won't be adding to the invisible chemical burden our environment is already struggling under. And decades from now, when it's developed that gorgeous patina of age and adventure, you'll still be wearing it with pride, whilst that Gore-Tex jacket will have long since failed and been replaced several times over.

That's the kind of investment, in quality, in sustainability, in the future, that I can wholeheartedly get behind. And I rather think you might too.