A little guide on what wax to use to reproof an Australian wax jacket

As many of you may well have discerned by now, I have developed quite an extraordinary affection for Australian waxed jackets. Those magnificent shoulder capes, which shield one's shoulders from torrential downpours whilst ensuring the rain cascades away elegantly; the frequently double-fastened press-stud closures; the beautifully rich, deep brown colouration; and the supple quality of the cotton.

All these elements conspire to instil within me with a strong eagerness to run outside in my Claybourn whenever the rains starts coming down. For there exists scarcely a more elegant manner of keeping yourself dry than in  a full-length Driza-Bone, Claybourn, or R.M. Williams coat. 

Make sure you buy enough

Over time, I have had the considerable pleasure of re-waxing about 10 of these Australian wax jackets, and on each occasion I found myself surprised by their substantial surface area. They frequently measure one-and-a-half to twice the length of a conventional waxed jacket, and time and again I discovered that I had rather underestimated the quantity of wax required to ‘do the job’, having melted slightly too little to treat the entire coat properly.

Moreover, one must account for those generous shoulder capes, which themselves constitute a considerable area. My earnest recommendation, therefore, is to rather buy more wax than you anticipate requiring. It is entirely possible that a 200ml tin may prove just insufficient. That said, the precise quantity naturally depends entirely upon the size and dimensions of your particular jacket. When in doubt, however, I would simply advise ordering two tins, approximately 400ml for the longest coats.

The sort of wax

This consideration is naturally both a matter of personal preference and one of carefully contemplating what you use the coat for. Are you mostly a city-dweller, I would most heartily recommend selecting a beautifully supple wax that will not make the jacket excessively rigid. In such circumstances, one might opt for a cotton wax dressing, of which there are quite a number suitable for this purpose. If you desire your jacket to possess an attractive sheen, then do select a wax that contains petroleum-based constituents, often referred to as paraffin. Perhaps consider, for instance, the wax dressing produced by Barbour or that offered by Halley Stevensons, both excellent choices.

I used almost an entire 200ml tin to fully reproof this R.M. Williams coat, but the result was stunning.

On the other side, should you prefer a slightly more matte finish, I can recommend Otter Wax. This is essentially a comparable product, though without any petroleum-based ingredients, thereby eliminating that characteristic oily sheen. Furthermore, this cotton dressing is entirely natural. Only organic ingredients were used. Additionally, it possesses a nice aroma. Or well, that’s perhaps just me liking these sorts of smells. A have a peculiar appetite, you see. 

Several Australian waxed jacket manufacturers offer their own reproofing wax. Driza-Bone, amongst others, provides a convenient 400-millilitre tin specifically formulated for their longest coats. However, depending upon one's location in the world, these products can be a little challenging getting one’s hands on without going bankrupt by shippings costs.  

Make your own wax to reproof your Australian wax jacket

I am, as a general principle, rather enthusiastic about d.y.i. projects, and this case most blending my own wax. The particular advantage of this approach lies in the ability to tailor your wax precisely to the specific function of your jacket. Should you frequently find yourself in woodland environments where enhanced protection against wear and deterioration is important, it would be advisable to formulate a considerably more robust wax. This can be achieved easily and cheaply by blending the wax yourself. I previously wrote a little article about the matter, which you may enjoy reading if you’re up for the task of blending your own wax.