History and heritage; the 5 best and iconic wax jackets that stood the test of time

It's rather remarkable, I find myself pondering, how many of fashion's most enduring pieces possess such fascinating origins. Merely casting an eye over my own wardrobe reveals quite the historical anthology.

Take, for instance, my two pairs of Dr. Martens – those iconic boots whose genesis can be traced to a wounded German physician who, in the immediate aftermath of the Second World War, found his standard-issue boots frightfully uncomfortable while recovering from injury and ingeniously replaced the standard soles with bouncy rubber. Then there are my powder-pink Chuck Taylor All Stars, originally crafted for basketball players in the early 1920s and are now a proper footwear design classic. The same fascinating providence applies to wax jackets, though their historical roots stretch back even further into the annals of time.

 The story of waxed fabric itself dates back to the early mariners of the 15th century, when Scottish sailors noticed their sails caught more wind when wet. This observation led to the practice of rubbing fish oils into their sailcloth, inadvertently creating the first waterproof fabrics.

Waxed canvas sails. Photo by Sonja Langford on Unsplash

By the 1700s, British sailors had refined this technique, treating their clothes with linseed oil for protection against the harsh sea spray. However, these early attempts had significant drawbacks - the oils would often turn rancid, and the garments became stiff in cold weather and sticky in warm conditions.

The real breakthrough came in 1823 when Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh developed a double-textured fabric incorporating rubber. By 1850, Francis Webster Ltd of Dundee had perfected the process of treating cotton with paraffin wax, creating the first true waxed cotton. This revolutionary development would go on to shape outdoor clothing for centuries to come. In fact, just like the Chuck Tailers basketball shoes, waxed jackets have gained a rather iconic status. Therefore I thought it suitable to lift the 5 best and iconic wax jackets onto a pedestal by elaborating a bit on their particular history. 

1. The Barbour Beaufort

The story of Barbour begins in 1894 when John Barbour established J. Barbour & Sons in South Shields, initially supplying oilskins and other weatherproof garments to sailors, fishermen, and dockers. The company's reputation grew steadily, and by 1908, they had expanded their catalogue to include motorcycling suits, an innovation that would prove crucial to their success.

Image credit: Barbour

The Beaufort, designed in 1983 by Chairman Dame Margaret Barbour, marked a turning point in the company's history. Inspired by French shooting jackets, Dame Margaret created what would become an icon of British country life. The jacket gained royal approval in 1987 when Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II commissioned several pieces, leading to Barbour receiving their first Royal Warrant from the Duke of Edinburgh in 1974, followed by another from Queen Elizabeth II in 1982.

2. The Belstaff Trialmaster

Eli Belovitch and his son-in-law Harry Grosberg founded Belstaff in 1924 in Staffordshire, creating water-repellent garments for motorcyclists. The Trialmaster, introduced in 1948, was revolutionary in its design, featuring a pivotal four-pocket layout that would influence motorcycle jacket design for decades to come.

When Steve McQueen wore the Trialmaster during the 1964 International Six Days Trial, it catapulted the jacket to international fame. The jacket's reputation was further enhanced when Che Guevara chose it for his 1952 motorcycle journey across South America, documented in "The Motorcycle Diaries."

3. The Filson Tin Cloth Jacket

C.C. Filson opened his first store in Seattle in 1897, specifically to outfit prospectors heading to the Klondike Gold Rush. The Tin Cloth Jacket, introduced in 1897, used a specially developed oil-finish tin cloth that proved remarkably effective in the harsh conditions of the American frontier.

Theodore Roosevelt became a loyal customer during his 1908 African safari, commissioning several pieces from Filson. The company's reputation for durability led to contracts with the U.S. Forest Service in 1914, further cementing their position as makers of premium outdoor gear.

4. The Private White V.C. Twin Track

The factory that produces the Twin Track has a rich history dating back to 1853, when it first opened as a raincoat manufacturer in Manchester. During World War I, the factory, then known as Cooper & Stollbrand, manufactured military gear for British troops, including the iconic trench coat.

The Twin Track, introduced in 2012, pays homage to Private Jack White, a World War I Victoria Cross recipient who apprenticed at the factory in 1907. After earning Britain's highest military honour in 1917, he returned to eventually own the factory. The modern incarnation of his legacy continues in the same building, using many of the original machines and techniques.

5. The Hackett Velospeed

Jeremy Hackett established his eponymous brand in 1983, initially selling high-quality second-hand traditional British clothing from a small shop in London's Fulham Road. The Velospeed, introduced in 1995, represented Hackett's modern interpretation of classic British motorcycling wear.

Prince Charles was photographed wearing the jacket during a polo match in 1996, leading to a surge in popularity. The jacket's success helped establish Hackett as a contemporary force in British heritage clothing.