How to date a vintage Barbour jacket

It sometimes happens to me. I'm browsing through a second-hand shop when I stumble upon an old, seemingly vintage Barbour jacket. Joy takes the best of me. The price tag bears the word 'vintage' followed by what feels like rather a steep asking price.

In such situations, I naturally want to ascertain whether the jacket is genuinely vintage and whether the asking price is justified. Therefore, I'd like to explain how I quickly determine the age of a jacket when I'm out hunting for vintage pieces.

Understanding the barcode label system

To establish the year of manufacture for a vintage Barbour jacket, I typically examine the white barcode label found inside the garment. I've learnt that the dating system varies depending on the era of production:

For jackets manufactured before 2000: I check the first two digits on the reverse of the white label, which correspond to the production year. For instance, if I find a label beginning with "92," I know the jacket was produced in 1992. This straightforward system makes dating these earlier pieces relatively simple.

For jackets made after approximately 2008: I've noticed the labelling system evolved to use seasonal codes such as "AWxx" or "SSxx," where "xx" refers to the year. For example, when I see AW14, I know it indicates autumn/winter 2014, whilst SS15 would denote spring/summer 2015.

What I look for when I date a vintage Barbour jacket

Beyond the barcode label, I've learned there’s other indicators that can help  me date vintage Barbour jackets:

Paper or card swing tickets: When I'm examining older jackets, I always check for a small paper or cardboard tag tucked into a pocket, displaying a folio number where the first two digits indicate the year of manufacture. These swing tickets are particularly exciting finds for me, as they often remain in pristine condition when stored carefully, which usually says something about the general state of the jacket. 

Evolution of label design: I've learnt to recognise how the styling and presentation of labels have evolved considerably over the decades, providing me with useful rough dating indicators. I can spot that labels from the 1970s tend to be simple and minimalist in design, whilst those from the 1980s typically feature a darker colour scheme with gold lettering. I also look for the presence of Royal Warrants and variations in logo design to help me pinpoint the era. But sometimes it’s still a guessing game for me. If you’re uncertain, get in touch with Barbour directly. They’re happy to assist. 

Hardware and construction details: I always take time examining the type of zips employed, buttons engraved with the Barbour name, and the presence of specific tartan linings or jacket style details (such as the number and arrangement of pockets). I've noticed that earlier jackets often feature brass zips from manufacturers like YKK, whilst construction methods and pocket configurations changed subtly over time—details I've trained my eye to spot.

I still haven’t got a clue

In that case I would recommend either get in touch with me on insta or send Barbour a message. They’re very likely to help you date your jacket.