D.I.Y. rewaxing a wax jacket; the different types of wax explained

I've noticed a fair bit of confusion on the internet about the types of wax you could or should use when reproofing a waxed jacket, particularly Barbour ones like the Bedale or Ashby. Therefore I thought it necessary to clarify a few things and point you in the right direction.

Whilst I often use Barbour as an example, these principles apply to all traditional waxed cotton jackets. Inside the pocket flap, you'll spot 'Sylkoil', which refers to the factory's initial 'unshorn' wax treatment applied to fluffy cotton straight from the loom during dyeing.​

This Sylkoil finish gives a subtle matte look that highlights the fabric's natural texture, rich colour variations, and a comfortable break-in over time.​

Thornproof vs Sylkoil

Barbour's Thornproof finish, by contrast, uses heated rollers to calender the cotton, sealing the weave for a dual matte-and-glossy effect with superior weather resistance, deeper colours, and added durability, but it's stiffer.​

Thornproof Dressing works on both finishes; on Sylkoil, it temporarily smooths the nap with a sheen that fades back to matte while restoring protection.​

Barbour's own Thornproof Dressing costs around £25 and requires annual reproofing as the wax wears thin. It depends of course a bit on how often you wear it, and in what type of weather.

5 wax alternatives for re-waxing a wax jacket

Here are five reliable alternatives I've used myself for re-waxing a jacket and can definitely recommend for all your cotton-reproofing-challenges:

• Barbour Thornproof Dressing: an absolute evergreen, and here I'm not only referring to the colour of the tin it comes in. It does an excellent job, and brings back a nice glossiness to the cotton.

  
  

• Otter Wax: My top pick for a beautiful matte finish; it's 100% natural with no petroleum, pleasant scent, and excellent for patina-loving jacket owners, such as myself.

  
  

• Walker and Hawkes Cotton Dressing: Time-tested and budget-friendly, it delivers solid results for everyday reproofing.​

  
  

• Halley Stevenson Wax: Robust and paraffin-based for heavy-duty use, providing a durable glossy layer that withstands harsh weather.​

  
  

• Filson Wax: Old-school type of wax. I once got my hands on a tin through a shady webshop, as it's not widely available outside the U.S.

DIY wax blending

For full control, I blend my own wax to tweak stiffness and durability, creating a thicker mix than off-the-shelf options.​ I've detailed my recipe in this article for those keen to try.​

Care rules

To keep any wax jacket in top nick:

• Never machine wash or dry clean.

• Clean only with cold water and a soft sponge, warm water might damage the wax.

• Always check the pocket care label of course.