The first ever in serie produced Barbour: the jacket that changed everything
- Mr. Darcy Downpour
- Nov 19, 2025
- 3 min read
There's absolutely no doubt about it. Whenever I tell someone that I restore waxed jackets, the name Barbour inevitably floats to the surface, even if I haven't mentioned it myself. And that's entirely justified, of course. This world-renowned marque produces iconic jackets that have become part of the urban landscape in virtually every slightly chilly and rainy city across the globe. But this brand awareness comes from somewhere.
That's precisely why I'd like to tell you more about the first mass-produced waxed jacket that helped put the brand on the map, and whose legacy continues to influence the design language of their current jackets to this day. I should clarify, this isn't the very first jacket Barbour ever produced; for that, we'd need to journey all the way back to the late nineteenth century, which I won't do. Not now.
Back to the 80's
For this first serie-produced Barbour jacket, let me take you to the early 1980s, or 1980, to be precise. It was none other than Dame Margaret Barbour herself who designed it out of her own personal need for a proper riding jacket. Margaret Barbour was the widow of John Malcolm Barbour, who served as Chairman of what would become this world-famous brand until his death in 1972. It's largely thanks to Margaret Barbour's entrepreneurial spirit and vision that the brand evolved from a manufacturer of rugged outdoor clothing into the global fashion powerhouse it is today. Because that's precisely what it is.
A small English village called Bedale
The Bedale was named after a tiny village in the English countryside in North Yorkshire. The groundbreaking jacket proved to be a significant turning point in the company's history and laid the foundation for subsequent jacket styles that would become iconic for Barbour and would inspire countless other brands.
The Bedale jacket was revolutionary in its time, and perhaps still is, far more so than any disposable Gore-tex and polyester nonsense, not only because of its practical equestrian features, but also because of how it transformed the Barbour brand and propelled it into the lifestyle and countrywear market.
The shorter length, relaxed fit, useful rear vents, and a nylon inner layer provided additional water resistance, making it both comfortable and functional for riders and country folk alike. Because that's precisely what this jacket was designed for: a jacket that's meant to get filthy. Mud, rain, horse poo and what have you. What this jacket is doing in the more expensive shopping streets of north-western European cities remains rather a mystery to me. Or well, it isn't, but I suppose my point is that it's meant for other purposes than implying status of some sort.
Some features of the first serie produced Barbour
The Bedale was thoughtfully designed with several distinctive characteristics that set it apart:
A relaxed and short cut specifically for riding comfort
Rear vents and breathable materials to prevent overheating during active use
Thornproof waxed cotton for exceptional durability and water resistance
Practical, easily accessible pockets; earlier versions featured four pockets, which were later replaced with hand warmers
Originally produced in classic countryside colours such as olive green, navy blue, and sage green
An impressive 160 individual components assembled for each Bedale (49 fabric pieces, 103 trims, and 8 packaging items)
The original Barbour Bedale was produced until 2002, after which it was replaced by the Classic Bedale. Should you happen to stumble upon one in a second-hand shop and want to know whether it's genuinely a vintage example, do have a read of this piece I wrote about dating vintage Barbour jackets. And if it's a vintage, buy it without hesitation. This is a piece of history, people. And most likely worth something when in decent nick.
Legacy and evolution getting married
The Bedale helped establish Barbour as a leader in classic British countrywear and enabled the brand to transition from utilitarian workwear to a status symbol and fashion phenomenon, earning Royal Warrants and enduring widespread popularity along the way. The original Bedale was discontinued in 2002 and replaced by the 'Classic Bedale', which remains available today.
Get yourself a classic
If you're even remotely keen on the genre of waxed jackets, you care about quality, and you're planning to purchase a jacket that'll last you the rest of your life because you'll hopefully look after it properly, then the Barbour Bedale is for you. They come in various versions and colours. My favourite is perhaps the trenchcoat. A tip from an experienced waxjacket enthusiast: buy a size up so you've got plenty of room for a nice warm woollen jumper when it gets a bit chilly.